Shaping means



. May 23, 1933. 5. J. MCAULEY SHAPING MEANS Original Filed June 21, 1930 lg? @6 g 56' 57 37 Z i 29 i 4 55 E Patented May 23, 1933 UNITED TATES P TENT orncr:

SAMUEL J". MCAULEY, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO CLUETT, ZPEAJBODY & (10., INQ, OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK SHAPING mus Original application filed.- J'une 21, 1930,. Serial No. 462,817. Divided and this application filed December I 2, 1931. Serial No. 578,471.

This invention relates particularly to shaping a portion of a manufactured article of one or more plies of fabric such as a collar or a cuff, or other parts of a garment,

s and toapparatus for accomplishing such an object, as well as to an improved article so shaped. A stitched collar is representative of a class of articles, the manufactured and designed form of which may be improved by the present invention. A manufactured collar either attached-to, or attachable to a, shirt, generally consists of,one or more plies of fabric that have been operated upon; in the case of a single ply of fabric by turning in the edges generally ina machine and" by stitching or binding the edge; in the case of a collar composed of two or more plies of fabric by stitchin operations and turning operations either hand or by machine.

- It -is'customary int e ordinary processes of collar manufacturing to stitchthe plies together with an 'interliner forming an outer ply and to turn the plies inside out to bring.

the interliner between the plies. A second row of exposed stitches may then be run around the turned'edges forming. a, handturnedcollar.

whether these edges are formed according p to the above-mentioned processes or otherwise. Owing to the large amount of material that of necessity must be turned into the 5 point of the collar, a lump or bulge is formed in the point which is accentuated when the, collar." is ironed. Such bulges may occur prior'to stitching or may occur after stitching, butthey are particularly noticeable in soft collars attached to shirts, the

It is also common practice. to assemble the plies with the edges turned Thus in the tops of which have been run-stitched, handturned, and stitched. 'c j Objects of the present invention are to improve the art of shaping folded portions, such 'as the turned edges of collars or like manufactured articles, so that the edges of such portions will assume a well defined shape substantially free from edge convexity; to form the edge portions in such amanner as to reduce the tendency for bulging thereof and to cause the edges permanently to assume their intended shape; to improve the efiiciency of manufacture of articles of the class described so that they may be produced, in considerable quantities. with greater precision and uniformit of workmanship; to provide apparatus or improv-' ing the manufacture of such collars and like products; and also to provide such apparatus of simple, efficient and yet strong'and 7o durable construction consisting of few parts which are relatively inexpensive to manufacture. v I

This application is a division of my copending application Serial No. 462,817, filed 75 June 21, 1930. I

- In the drawing: 1

Fig. 1 is a side elevation, with parts broken away, of an apparatus for shaping the points of collars; A

Fig. 2 is a'front elevation of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 with a portion of the support shown in section;

Fig.- 3 is a section taken substantially along the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 41 is a section taken substantially along the line 44 of Fig. 2, showing the manner in which a collar is placed in the apparatus; and

Fi s. 5 and 6 are combined plan and edge views of collar points.

Various convenient forms of mechanism may be employed for pressing or molding the article into 1 the desired shape. Approved apparatus for practicing the invention may comprise a unitary support, indicated generally at 10, and having a lower platform portion 11 and an arm 12 which overhangs ori extends'above the platform. The underside of this platform portion may be cut away, as indicated at 13, to facilitate attachment of the device to a bench 14 or other suitable support. The platform portion 11 has a recess or depression 16 opening into the upper side thereof to receive a heating unit 17, this unit preferably being of the electrical type and being supplied with heating current by a conductor 18 which extends through an opening 19. in the end wall of the platform portion 11.

A matrix for the forming die, indicated generally at 21, is mounted upon the support 10 and comprises a base plate 22 which extends over the recess 16 to enclose the latter and is aflixed to the support in any approved manner, as by means of screws (not shown). The heating unit 17 preferably is attached to the under side of the plate 22 so as to assure good heat conduction to this plate and also to facilitate insertion or removal of the heating unit. A matrix or forming plate 23 is disposed on the upperside of the base plate 22 and aflixed thereto. by means of attaching screws 24. This plate has an approximately V-shaped notch 26 extending inwardly from the front edge thereof, the edges of this notch beingin the 1 form of substantially vertical side walls which meet at an acute angle and follow the contour which it is desired that the collar point shall ultimately assume.

A plunger 27 has a detachable head 28 having a contour complementary to and receivable within the side walls of the notch 26; The head 28 is'attached to the vertically disposed plunger rod 29 by means of a set screw 31. The overhanging arm 12 has a bore therein to receivethe plunger rod 29 and a counterbore 32 to provide a chamber for an actuating spring 33 which encompassesthe plunger rod 29. The upper end portion of the counterbore 32 is threaded to receive a similarly threaded plug 34 through which the upper end of the plunger rod extends. The upper end of the plug 34 has a knurled head 36 and a lock or jamb nut 37 is also mounted on the upper portion of this. plug for holding. the latter in the desired position of adjustment. The spring 33 seats against the lower end of the plug 34 and against a pin 38 (Fig. 3) mounted on the plunger rod. This pin is reciprocable vertically in a slot formed by the mating flanges 39 extending outwardly from the chamber 32. These flanges are held in properly spaced relation by means of screws 41 (Fig. 2).

The plunger 27 is adapted to be moved upwardly by a lever 42 (Fig. 1) which is pivoted intermediate its ends upon a pin 43 which extends between the spaced ears 44 mounted upon the upper side of the arm 12. One end of this lever is pivotally connected to the upper end of the plunger rod 29 by means of a pin and slot connection,

as indicated at 46. The other end of the lever may be pivotally connected to a rod 47 which extends to a treadle (not shown), or other approved means may be provided for operating this lever. A rod 48 extends upwardly from the arm 12 into the path of movement of the lever 42, the vertical height of the rod 48 being adjustable by means of a lock nut 49 so that the upper end of this rod may constitute a stop or abutment means for limiting movement of the lever 42, as will be apparent. The condition of a collar point of the class described as it is to be received by this apparatus is indicated generally at 51 in Fig. 5, from which it will be observed that the opposite surfaces of the point as well as the edges thereof have considerable curvature or convexity.

In practicing the invention with the apparatus described, the current is first supplied through the conductor 18 to the heating unit 17 so that the latter may heat the base plate 22 of the forming die, the matrix plate 23 being heated by conduction from the plate 22. As the head of the plunger 27 is normally held in heat transfer relation with the plate 22 and preferably in contact therewith by the spring 33, it will be seen that this head 28 is also heated from the plate 22. The head 28 preferably is'of relatively heavy construction, so that it will retain its heat during the operations of forming or shaping the collar points. When these parts have been properly heated the lever 42 is moved to raise the plunger 27, the

abutment rod 48 being adjusted so that the plunger will not be moved completely out of the notch 26 of the plate 23. The point 51 of the collar 52, as shown in Fig. 5, is then inserted into the notch 26 of the forming die and may be softened by moistening or otherwise previous to insertion, if desired. In practice it is sometimes. desirable to moisten the point in order to make the constituents thereof, such as the cloth, starch and the like, plastic for molding. Due to the action of the spring 33 it is necessary to hold the lever 42 against the abutment 48 during the insertion of the collar point. As soon as this point has been inserted, however, the lever 42 may be released and the spring will then.become effective to force the head 28 into the die and to cause the interposed collar point 51 to be compressed between the head of the plunger and the base plate 2. This compression acts to force the edge portions of the point 51 into abutment with the side walls of the notch 26so that these edges, be.

ing compressed against the vertical side walls, are squared and are held in this shape during the time that the plunger 27 is allowedto rest thereon. Due to the fact that'both the plunger and the die are heated, it willbe clear .thatheat is applied to the interposed collar point from the opposite sides thereof as Well as to the edge portions thereof. Furthermore, the action of the spring 33 in forcing the plunger27 downwardly is controlled in a measure by the position of the stop 48. Since this stop limits the upward movement of the plunger, it also determines the portion of. the down stroke thereof through which the spring 33 may act, and therefore it is assured that this spring will always, impart the same acceleration to the plunger and cause the latter to deliver the same impact and the same total force or pressure to the collar point in the die. In this way it is possible to eliminate the human element in the manufacture of articles .of the class described and to rely entirely up the apparatus disclosed for exerting the requisite amount of pressure to shape the point. Articles manufactured in this manner therefore exhibit greater precision and,

uniformity of workmanship than could be attained by any manual or edal procedure. The finished collar 52 is s own in Fig. 6,

. from which it will be seen that the turned edges of the point have been laterally mold ed and condensed to substantially the same thickness as the other portions of the collar. These turned edges are caused to assume and permanently to retain this sha e by the application of heat and pressure 1n the manner just described, the pressure being eflective' for shaping the point, while the heat fixes the shape so that it will re-' each-other for receiving and pressing the folded portions therebetween, one of the members comprising a die having a base portion and side walls meeting the base portion and disposed in substantially vertical and intersecting planes,'the other member being receivable-within said side walls for pressing material into the die member, means for effecting relative movement to separate the members and to move the members relatively toward each other.

2. Apparatus for simultaneously shaping a plurality of'folded and stitched portions of textile material comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and pressing the folded portions therebetween, one of the members comprising a die having a base portion and substantially vertical side walls meeting the base portion'and disposedat an acute angle to each other, the other mem ber registering with the die and being comwalls of the die, means for eflf'ecting relative movement to separate the members, and other means for moving the members rela tively toward each other.

3. Apparatus for shaping a folded and stitched portion of textile material comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and pressing the folded portion therebetween, one of the members comprising a base plate, a matrix disposed on the base plate and having a wall substantially meeting the base plate and disposed substantially normal thereto and adapted to confine the transverse edge of the folded portion in substantially abutting relation for assisting in shaping, the folded portion, the other member havin a contour complementary to said wall or cooperating with the latter during the pressing operation to shape the folded portion, and means for effecting relative movement of said members toward and from eacheother.

4. Apparatus for shaping a folded and stitched portion of textile material comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and pressing the folded portion therebetween, one of the members comprising a base plate, a matrix disposed on the base plate and having a wall substantially meeting the base plate and disposed v substantially normal thereto and adapted to confine the transverse edge of the folded portion in substantially abutting relation for assisting in shaping the folded portion,a heating unit disposed heat transfer relation with the base plate, the other member having a contour complementary to said wall for cooperating with the latter to sha e the folded portion, means for separating t e members, and means tending to hold said othermember in engage or moving the plunger away from the base I plate. v

6. Apparatus of the class described comprising a support having a recess therein, a

heating unit disposed in the recess, a base plate closing the recess, a matrix plate disposed on the base plate and having substantially vertical walls substantially meeting the base plate and extending at an angle to each other to form a garment point to the desired shape, a plunger having a con,- tour complementary to that delineated by the substantially vertical walls and receiva- I5 ble therebetween, means tending to move the plunger against the base plate, and means carried by the support for moving the plunger away from the base plate.

7. The combination of a support compris ing a platform portion and an arm extending over the platform, a die mounted on the platform, said die having a garment point receiving recess comprising walls spaced to confine and substantially abut the edges of a garment point disposed in said recess,

a plunger receivable in the die for forcing the garment point into the die and against the walls thereof, means on the arm for guiding the plungerfor rectilinear movement toward and from the die, means tending to move the plunger into the die,

and a lever fulcrumed on the arm for moving the plunger from the die. 8. The combination of a support comprising a platform portion and-an arm extending over the platform, a die mounted on the platform, said die having a garment po nt receiving recess comprising walls spaced to confine and substantially abut the edges of a garment point disposed in said recess a plunger receivable in the die for forcing the garment point into the die and against the walls thereof, means on the arm' for guiding the plunger for rectilinear movement toward and from the die, means tending to move the plunger into the die, a lever mounted to pivot on the arm and connected to the plunger for moving the latter from the die, and an adjustable abut-ment engageable with the Q lever for limiting such movement.

9. The combination of a support com-prising a platform portion and an arm extending over the platform, a-die on the platform comprising a base plate and substantially vertical walls substantially meeting the base plate and meeting one another at an acute angle, the die having anopen side for receiving the point of acollar, a plunger receivable in the die, the arm hav ng a substantially vertical bore therethrough, the

die mounted on the platform and extending over the recess to enclose the latter, the die comprising a base plate and substantially vertical walls substantially meeting the base plate and meeting one another at an acute angle to form the point of a collar, the die also having an open side for receiving the point of a collar, a plunger receivable in the die, means 011 the arm for guiding the. plunger for rectilinear movement in alignment with the die, a spring abutting against the arm and against. the plunger for moving the latter into the die, a lever mounted to pivot on the arm and connected to the plunger for moving the latter upwardly, and abutment means on the arm for limiting such upward movement of the plunger. 11. In a garment point forming machine, a bed, walls substantially meeting the bed and extending transversely to the plane of the bed and forming a recess adapted to confine and substantially abut the edges of a garment point positioned therein and confine the same to a predetermined shape, and means for applying heat and pressure to a garment point positioned in said recess.

12. Ina garment point forming machine, walls spaced apart and forming therebetween a recess adapted to closely follow in substantially abutting relation the edges of a garment point positioned therein and confine the same to a predetermined shape, said recess having a bottom surface disposed in a plane from which said walls extend at an angle whereby the walls meet said surface and may abut the edges of and confine a garment point positioned on said bottom surface, and means for applying heat and pressure to a garment point Within said recess.

13. Apparatus for shaping the point of a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and molding said point, one of said members having a recess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of said point and Walls disposed substantially perpendicular to and substantially meetingsaid base surface and extending angularly from each other and along said base surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface engageable Withthe other side of said point for pressing the latter into said recess and .forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, means for heating one of said members, and means for holding said members in heat transferring relationship When not in use so that both of said members may be maintained at approximately the same temperature.

14. Apparatus for shaping the point of a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposedmembers movable relatively toward and from. each other for receiving and molding said point, one of said members having arecess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of sald point and walls disposed substantially perpendicular to and substantially meeting said base surface and extending angularly from each other and outwardly from and along said base surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially'abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface engageable with the other side of said point for pressing the latter into said recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, a'heat ing unit, and means for holding said'members in heat transferring relation with said heating unit when said members are not in use so that both of said members may be maintained at substantially the same temperature. v r

15. Apparatus for shaping the point of a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and molding said point, one of said members comprising a die having a recess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of said point and walls disposed substantiallyperpendicular to and substantially meeting said base surface and extending angularly from each. other and along said base surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface engageable with the other side of said point for pressing the latter intosaid' recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly agatnst said walls, means for separating said members, and means for applying substantially the same force to move said members toward each other on each of a plurality of actuations thereof, whereby substantially'the same pressure may be applied during each of such actuations of said members.

16. Apparatus for shaping the point of a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for' receiving and molding said point, one of said members comprising a die havlng a recess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of said point and walls disposed substantially perpendicular to andsubstan tially meeting said base surface and extendingangularly from each other and outward ly from and along said base surface for confining the transverseedges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface ehgageable with the other side of said point for pressing the latter into said recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, continually acting means tending to .move 831d members relatively toward each other, means for separating the members,

and means for limiting the separating movement of the members, whereby said continually acting means may be effective through substantially the samestroke for applying substantially the same force on each of a plurality of actuations thereof.

17 Apparatus for shaping the point of a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and molding said point, one of said members comprising a die having a recess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of said point and walls disposed substantially perpendicular to and substantially meeting said base surface and extending angularly from each other and along said base surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface engageable with the other side of said point for pressing the latter into said recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, a lever for separating said members, means tending to hold said members together, and an abutment engageable with the lever for limiting separating movement thereof, ,whereby the latter means may be effective during the same relative movement of said members. to apply substantially the same force on successive operations to the interposed point of the textile article.

18. Apparatus for shaping the point of outwardly from and along saidbase surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the

other of said members having a surface engageable with the other side of said point.

for pressing the latter into said recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, means for. separating said members, resilient means for urging said members toward each other, and abutment means for limiting the separating movement of the separating means, whereby the resilient means may be effectiveduring the same relative movement for imparting substantially the sameacceleration during relative movement of the members toward each other.

19. Apparatus for shaping the pointof a manufactured textile article having turned edges comprising opposed members movable relatively toward and from each other for receiving and molding said point, one of said members comprising a die having .a recess comprising a base surface engageable with one side of said point and walls disposed substantially perpendicular to and substantially meeting said base surface and extending angularly from each other and along said base surface for confining the transverse edges of said point in substantially abutting relation, the other of said members having a surface engageable with the other side of said point for pressing the latter into said recess and forcing the transverse edges firmly against said walls, means for heating the die member, and means tending to hold the members in engagement so that heat may be transferred from the die member to said other member during such engagement for heating the latter member.

20. Means for condensing a garment point and forming it to a predetermined shape comprising a die having a substantially plane surface to receive the side of a garment point and walls substantially meeting and extending upwardly from said surface to confine and substantially abut the edgesof the garment point, and means for pressing the garment point into said die to bring the surfaces of the side and edge portions of said point firmly against coextensive surfaces of the walls and plane surface of said die.

21. Means for condensing a garment point and forming the edges thereof to a predetermined shape comprising Walls adapted to confine and substantially abut the transverse edges of the garment point and means for applying pressure to the sides of the point to condense the latter While so abutted and confined and to force thetransverse edges firmly against coextensive surfaces of said walls.

Signed by me at Truro in the Province of Nova Scotia, this 19th day of November SAMUEL J. MOAULEY. 

